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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says a family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest place securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary achievement.